If you think this is a Photoshop trick, you are wrong (this time). It would be easy enough to accomplish this in Photoshop, but this is one of those cases where the image can be created fairly easily in camera. So how did I do it? Click on the image - you can read the details on my Flickr page.
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Monstrosity Discovered in Granville
The small-town community of Granville is aghast at the discovery of a two-headed man living amongst them. One unnamed source said, "We're in shock. He seemed like a normal sort of guy. I'm really not sure how we never noticed this before."

If you think this is a Photoshop trick, you are wrong (this time). It would be easy enough to accomplish this in Photoshop, but this is one of those cases where the image can be created fairly easily in camera. So how did I do it? Click on the image - you can read the details on my Flickr page.
If you think this is a Photoshop trick, you are wrong (this time). It would be easy enough to accomplish this in Photoshop, but this is one of those cases where the image can be created fairly easily in camera. So how did I do it? Click on the image - you can read the details on my Flickr page.
Labels:
double exposure,
rear curtain sync,
two heads
Sunday, January 27, 2008
Barn at Infirmary Mound Park
A couple of weekends back I went out shooting while my family relaxed around the house. With the bad weather that week, I was itching to get outside and shoot.
Naturally, the day before I had seen several Red-Tailed Hawks in various locations. So of course there were none to be seen that whole afternoon while I was out. My search ended up at Infirmary Mound park. I figured if I couldn't spot a hawk, at least I could hike at the park and get some shots of the ice.
What I ended up shooting (among other things) was this great old barn. You could tell it used to be painted red, but the weathered wood was showing through. And I was there as the sun was getting low on the horizon, so I had great light to work with.
The photo was just the type of shot I have been thinking about lately. I saw an article on a sort of pseudo HDR technique, so I gave it a try. I like the result and in the process I picked up several good Photoshop tips.

So how did I do it? Well, I found the link to the technique at David Ziser's DigitalProTalk blog. To read about this technique and the free plugin, follow the link to Enigma Studios. I will say that I expanded on the technique a bit to produce this image. Give it a try and don't be afraid to experiment!
Naturally, the day before I had seen several Red-Tailed Hawks in various locations. So of course there were none to be seen that whole afternoon while I was out. My search ended up at Infirmary Mound park. I figured if I couldn't spot a hawk, at least I could hike at the park and get some shots of the ice.
What I ended up shooting (among other things) was this great old barn. You could tell it used to be painted red, but the weathered wood was showing through. And I was there as the sun was getting low on the horizon, so I had great light to work with.
The photo was just the type of shot I have been thinking about lately. I saw an article on a sort of pseudo HDR technique, so I gave it a try. I like the result and in the process I picked up several good Photoshop tips.
So how did I do it? Well, I found the link to the technique at David Ziser's DigitalProTalk blog. To read about this technique and the free plugin, follow the link to Enigma Studios. I will say that I expanded on the technique a bit to produce this image. Give it a try and don't be afraid to experiment!
Labels:
Barn,
HDR,
Infirmary Mound,
Photoshop,
Plugin
Thursday, January 24, 2008
Macro Primer Pt II - Reversing a Lens
In my first article, I wrote about close up filters, an inexpensive way to get into macro photography. In this article, I will be talking about another way to "create" a macro lens. Depending on your situation, this may also be an inexpensive endeavor.
Let's say you just walked your old 50mm lens out to the curb for trash man to pick up. You used it with the old 35mm film camera, but maybe the mount is different than your DSLR or you switched camps and have no use for the old lens.
WHAT ARE YOU, NUTS?!?! YOU JUST THREW AWAY A FREE MACRO LENS! Get back out to the curb NOW!
That's right, if you have an old lens laying around, you don't have to pay another cent. The really great thing about this is that it doesn't matter what brand of lens you reverse. Canon, Nikon, whatever you have on hand
When I bought my Nikon, I thought my old lenses would fit the D50. Turns out most of my lenses are just a little too old. Too bad because I had quite a few. Then I discovered that if you have a lens and mount it to the camera backwards, voila, you have a macro lens.
There are two ways to use your lens backwards. One is an adapter that will let you mount the lens backwards on the camera. I've even seen a DIY adapter, though personally I would not use it since it is constructed of plastic and epoxy. Probably not a big deal, but the adapter will probably run you about $15 so DIY will not yield a big savings here.
The second method, which I use, requires two lenses. It turns out that the 80-200mm zoom lens that I had for my old Nikon F does fit the D50. It's not a fast lens and I probably wouldn't use it for much else anyway. I also have a 50mm f1.4 that does not fit my D50. Both lenses happen to take a 52mm filter, meaning the front of each lens is the same diameter.
To create my macro lens, I put the two lenses together, as shown in the picture below.

When I first read about this, I was eager to find out how well this would work, and I couldn't locate a macro coupler. So I improvised and used a piece of electrical tape to hold the lenses together. Since I consider this a dedicated macro lens, this works great. The original piece of tape is still holding the lenses in place a year later. I know I dismissed the DIY adapter a minute ago as risky, but really, the tape does work well.

If you want to find the macro couplers, check here.
What you need to know about this technique is that you have to be extremely close to your subject. Here is why: under normal circumstances, the lens element is designed to focus on the film plane. When you reverse the lens, that distance doesn't change - but instead of the film plane, your macro subject is in that location.
Another important fact, the faster the lens, the better. Unless you are going for a vignette effect, you want the reversed lens to be set to its widest aperture. Also, depth of field is extremely shallow with this technique.
In the previous article, I showed samples of how close you can get with the close up filters. As a reference, here are two shots from last time, and below that two shots with the reversed lens technique.
Obviously your results will vary, depending on what lenses are used to comprise your macro lens. Ready for some real world examples? Here are some critters who were cooperative enough to let me get close to them. For reference, the spider descending toward my face was approximately a quarter of an inch in diameter.


Click on the fly to see a high res version.
Let's say you just walked your old 50mm lens out to the curb for trash man to pick up. You used it with the old 35mm film camera, but maybe the mount is different than your DSLR or you switched camps and have no use for the old lens.
WHAT ARE YOU, NUTS?!?! YOU JUST THREW AWAY A FREE MACRO LENS! Get back out to the curb NOW!
That's right, if you have an old lens laying around, you don't have to pay another cent. The really great thing about this is that it doesn't matter what brand of lens you reverse. Canon, Nikon, whatever you have on hand
When I bought my Nikon, I thought my old lenses would fit the D50. Turns out most of my lenses are just a little too old. Too bad because I had quite a few. Then I discovered that if you have a lens and mount it to the camera backwards, voila, you have a macro lens.
There are two ways to use your lens backwards. One is an adapter that will let you mount the lens backwards on the camera. I've even seen a DIY adapter, though personally I would not use it since it is constructed of plastic and epoxy. Probably not a big deal, but the adapter will probably run you about $15 so DIY will not yield a big savings here.
The second method, which I use, requires two lenses. It turns out that the 80-200mm zoom lens that I had for my old Nikon F does fit the D50. It's not a fast lens and I probably wouldn't use it for much else anyway. I also have a 50mm f1.4 that does not fit my D50. Both lenses happen to take a 52mm filter, meaning the front of each lens is the same diameter.
To create my macro lens, I put the two lenses together, as shown in the picture below.
When I first read about this, I was eager to find out how well this would work, and I couldn't locate a macro coupler. So I improvised and used a piece of electrical tape to hold the lenses together. Since I consider this a dedicated macro lens, this works great. The original piece of tape is still holding the lenses in place a year later. I know I dismissed the DIY adapter a minute ago as risky, but really, the tape does work well.
If you want to find the macro couplers, check here.
What you need to know about this technique is that you have to be extremely close to your subject. Here is why: under normal circumstances, the lens element is designed to focus on the film plane. When you reverse the lens, that distance doesn't change - but instead of the film plane, your macro subject is in that location.
Another important fact, the faster the lens, the better. Unless you are going for a vignette effect, you want the reversed lens to be set to its widest aperture. Also, depth of field is extremely shallow with this technique.
In the previous article, I showed samples of how close you can get with the close up filters. As a reference, here are two shots from last time, and below that two shots with the reversed lens technique.
300mm, no close up filter | 300mm, +7 close up |
70mm zoom w/ 50 mm reversed | 200mm zoom w/ 50 mm reversed |
Obviously your results will vary, depending on what lenses are used to comprise your macro lens. Ready for some real world examples? Here are some critters who were cooperative enough to let me get close to them. For reference, the spider descending toward my face was approximately a quarter of an inch in diameter.
Click on the fly to see a high res version.
Wednesday, January 9, 2008
Drive By - Frosty Morning
This is a good example of why I carry my camera everywhere. It had rained an icy rain the night before and then turned to a very light snow in the morning. On my way to work, I noticed that the ice coated weeds now had snowflakes stuck to them. The sun was still rising, which gave me the really cool background to work with.

This particular field, by the way, has been a real treasure trove of photo ideas. I've stopped numerous times on my drive in to work. I've shot sunrises, the ubiquitous 'farm' tree, and various deer over the last few years from the edge of the road.
This particular field, by the way, has been a real treasure trove of photo ideas. I've stopped numerous times on my drive in to work. I've shot sunrises, the ubiquitous 'farm' tree, and various deer over the last few years from the edge of the road.
Thursday, January 3, 2008
What Does It Take to Create a Christmas Photo?
As we have in years past, we shot our own Christmas photo of the children to send out with our Christmas Cards. Here is the shot:

So you may be wondering, "What kind of fool would do this to himself?" Or perhaps you have had too much eggnog and instead are wondering, "What does it take to get a shot like that so close to Christmas with four over-excited children?" Well, let me just say that you are very well spoken given the eggnog factor. But the answer to the first question is 'ME'. To answer the second, I offer this little slide show of the 'rejected' photos. As an added bonus, I've included the alternate, second choice photo at the end of the show.
So you may be wondering, "What kind of fool would do this to himself?" Or perhaps you have had too much eggnog and instead are wondering, "What does it take to get a shot like that so close to Christmas with four over-excited children?" Well, let me just say that you are very well spoken given the eggnog factor. But the answer to the first question is 'ME'. To answer the second, I offer this little slide show of the 'rejected' photos. As an added bonus, I've included the alternate, second choice photo at the end of the show.
Friday, December 28, 2007
Thursday, December 27, 2007
A Little Macro Primer - Close Up Filters
Want to try your hand at macro photography, but you are hesitant to drop $500 plus on a macro lens? Then this little demo is for you. I am going to explain two tools that I use when shooting macro. Neither one is terribly complex and by photographic equipment standards, both are fairly inexpensive.
In this first article, I want to talk about close up filters. I am always surprised that more people don't seem to know about these, because they are easy to use and carry, and can even be used with some point and shoot type cameras. In fact, I first tried these with a Fuji S5000, and then later purchased a set for my Nikon DSLR.

To use a close-up filter, you attach it to your lens just like you would any other filter. You can also add more than one of these filters at once, enabling you to greatly increase the magnification of your macro subject.
There is a quality cost for doing so, though. The higher the magnification, the more you will see chromatic abberation or color fringing around the edges of an object. To demonstrate this, I have taken photos of a couple of household objects at various magnifications.
Here is our base photograph taken with my Tamron lens @300mm.

Below on the left is pretty much the same shot, same lens, but with a +1 filter added (I did have to adjust the camera closer). As you can see, there is not a great deal of difference between the +1 and the base photo. When I add the +2 close up filter (right), the difference is a bit more obvious.

At +4 (left) you can see the color change around some of the edges of the ruler. On the right is a photo with all three filters stacked, for a +7 magnification.

Look closely at the shadow around the bottom of the ruler for a hint of blue that should not be there.

Macro photographers tend to work with a very narrow depth of field, and these filters are no exception. Aside from the color issue, you will notice that less and less of the ruler is in focus as our magnification increases. You can extend the depth to some extent by controlling the aperture.
With the set I own, you have to stack them with the lowest magnification closest to the lens, then build up. If you put the +4 on first, the next filter will rub against the glass, because the curvature of the glass extends beyond the depth of the mounting ring.

You should be able to find them at any good camera shop. If you want to find them online, check out Adorama.
What can you really do with these? See the photo below:

My next post on macro photography will cover reversing a lens to create a "macro" lens.
Visit my photography site at PatterPhotography.com
In this first article, I want to talk about close up filters. I am always surprised that more people don't seem to know about these, because they are easy to use and carry, and can even be used with some point and shoot type cameras. In fact, I first tried these with a Fuji S5000, and then later purchased a set for my Nikon DSLR.
To use a close-up filter, you attach it to your lens just like you would any other filter. You can also add more than one of these filters at once, enabling you to greatly increase the magnification of your macro subject.
There is a quality cost for doing so, though. The higher the magnification, the more you will see chromatic abberation or color fringing around the edges of an object. To demonstrate this, I have taken photos of a couple of household objects at various magnifications.
Here is our base photograph taken with my Tamron lens @300mm.
Below on the left is pretty much the same shot, same lens, but with a +1 filter added (I did have to adjust the camera closer). As you can see, there is not a great deal of difference between the +1 and the base photo. When I add the +2 close up filter (right), the difference is a bit more obvious.
At +4 (left) you can see the color change around some of the edges of the ruler. On the right is a photo with all three filters stacked, for a +7 magnification.
Look closely at the shadow around the bottom of the ruler for a hint of blue that should not be there.
Macro photographers tend to work with a very narrow depth of field, and these filters are no exception. Aside from the color issue, you will notice that less and less of the ruler is in focus as our magnification increases. You can extend the depth to some extent by controlling the aperture.
With the set I own, you have to stack them with the lowest magnification closest to the lens, then build up. If you put the +4 on first, the next filter will rub against the glass, because the curvature of the glass extends beyond the depth of the mounting ring.
You should be able to find them at any good camera shop. If you want to find them online, check out Adorama.
What can you really do with these? See the photo below:
My next post on macro photography will cover reversing a lens to create a "macro" lens.
Visit my photography site at PatterPhotography.com
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